All Day Baby: A Perfect Biscuit Brunch

All Day Baby’s take-out window and shopfront.

It’s hard to miss All Day Baby driving down Sunset Boulevard in Silver Lake. Its bright red shopfront with aqua lettering and charming take-out window looks like it came out of a Wes Anderson movie.

A joyful, modern classic dinette, bakery, and cocktail bar, ADB shines at all things brunch and lunch. Their all-day menu of elevated comforts currently serves breakfast, sandwiches, pastries, and coffee, complemented by a fun selection of cocktails, beer, wine, and agua frescas. The food is a collaboration between pastry director Thessa Diadem and chef and co-owner Jonathan Whitener, with managing partner Lien Ta overseeing the day-to-day. ADB’s market also sells select goods, like their gingery house “Tigre” hot sauce, pimento cheese dip, strawberry and date jams, and beautifully designed merch.

ADB Biscuit Sandwiches with and without Bacon, Mango Passion Tea and Negroni Spritzer.

On a sunny day taking in sidewalk views, we had ADB Biscuit Sandwiches, with and without bacon, Mango Passion Tea, and a Negroni Spritzer. As many Southern transplants to LA will tell you, like my dining compatriot, a truly good biscuit is not easy to come by here. So when you find one, you hold onto it. Golden, buttery, flaky, with a slight crunch, this buttermilk biscuit is perfect. ADB does this “croissant of the South” West Coast justice as award-winning Atlantan baker and cookbook author Cheryl Day dubs them.

The ADB Biscuit Sandwich comes with scrambled eggs, American cheese, strawberry jam, bacon or sausage (or both). Without the bacon, it’s deliciously buttery, fruit-sweet and savory, and just melts in your mouth. My fellow diner really loved the thick cuts of bacon in his, which added a dimension of rich smokiness to an already winning combo. The ice-cold Mango Passion Tea was refreshing in the heat, and the balanced, yet delightfully strong Negroni Spritzer transported you to a neighborhood Italian café mindset where there’s nothing to do but wile the day away.

But, the road has been tough. ADB took over the long-vacant Samosa House space on the corner of Descanso and Sunset less than a year ago, and were forced to close three and a half months later in response to the COVID-19 outbreak. They only recently opened breakfast and lunch service again for take-out, delivery, and limited sidewalk dining with protocols for social distancing and frequent cleaning that made for a comfortable brunch. They’re holding on as long as possible after the co-owners had to close their beloved sister restaurant, Here’s Looking at You, for the foreseeable future earlier this month.

So get out there virtually or in-person if you’d like to give this lovely place with serious biscuit game a chance in LA’s future. I myself will be back ASAP for a couple of dreamy biscuits, salted butter and strawberry jam, a side of scrambled eggs, and some coffee. Until then, I’ll be putting that delicious “Tigre” hot sauce I took home on everything while lounging Netflix-side in my cute ADB creamsicle t-shirt.

All Day Baby is located at 3200 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026.

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